Gost iz Kanade podijelio svoje iskustvo boravka u Sarajevu

“Šta mogu raditi u Sarajevu”, pitanje je koje sebi postave mnogi turisti koji su krenuli u posjetu Balkanu, a odgovor na to pitanje je vrlo zanimljivo iskustvo.

Tako Max Globetrotter, osnivač firme The Great Canadian Travel Group, priča svoje iskustvo sa glavnim gradom Bosne i Hercegovine.

“Ovdje kao i u bilo kojoj drugoj regiji u konfliktu, perspektive i percepcije drugačije se razumiju. ‘Zapadni Balkan’, kako danas nazivaju bivšu Jugoslaviju je vježba u perspektivi”,navodi Globetrotter.

Sarajevo je sjajan mali grad, to je trodnevni grad u najboljem slučaju, a sve zavisi od vremenskih prilika. Prethodno je bio poznat na Zapadu kao domaćin Zimskih olimpijskih igara 1984. godine.

To je fin grad za posjetiti, grad kontrasta i ljepote, grad koji baštini stoljećima kulturu, obrazovanje i upravljanje. To je grad za lutanje, mjesto velikog historijskog značaja ali ga često putnici i turisti previde u svojim putovanjima.

Ubistvo austro-ugarskog prestolonasljednika Franza Ferdinanda i posljedično uništenje Europe u Prvom svjetskom ratu, je lokalni događaj obilježen malom pločom pored malog mosta.

Ali nije samo to što obilježava ovaj grad. Mnoge religije i teritorijalne pretenzije učinile su da se stoljećima mijenjala arhitektura ovog grada i kulturne prilike. To je razlog za potencijalne posjetitelje.

Sviđa mi se Sarajevo, premda centralni dio Starog Grada bi mogao biti imitacija Božićnog marketa tokom ljeta. Ulice su pune zlatara, metalskih zanata, prodavnica suvenira. Prelijepo je zaista, a melodični pozivi na moltivu svakod dana, daju Sarajevu posebnu mistiku i šarm.

Vjerovatno je to mjesto kojeg bi radije posjetio nego živio u njemu.

Sveobuhvatna obnova, nove zgrade i putevi, obnovljeni mostovi koji su uslijedili nakon brutalnog rata 1990-tih godina, u pozadini su kulture Sarajeva.

To je grad koji je deset milja širok i jedan inč dubok poput nekog furnira. Kao i ostatak Bosne, i Sarajevo pati zbog izgubljene mladosti, kako onih koji su poginuli u ratu, tako i onih koji su poslije rata otišli u inostranstvo.

Zbog ovih gubitaka, grad se muči u sadašnjosti.

Amna Turković je taj tip osobe koje Sarajevo treba da bi se održalo. Ona je u svojim 20-tim godinama, i brine za svoj dom i svoju budućnost. Ona je obrazovana, strastvena Bosanka i i ponosna na svoju islamsku pripadnost.

Ona je muzičarka, novinarka i žena koja razmišlja o budućnosti. Amna razumije i zabinuta je sadašnjom netolerancijom.

Govoreći o obrazovanosti, tužna je što padaju standardi i možda je to rezultat gubitka 150.000 mladih ljudi koju svoju šansu traže na Zapadu.

Ovo je zemlja sa mnogo problema, dok mnoge zemlje Zapadnog Balkana sanjare o budućnosti, u Bosni je i dalje napeto. Nacija sačinjena od tri komponente rijetko se složi o bilo čemu i to nije stabilna baza za budućnost. Bosna je centralna i kritična tačka interakcije između ljudi, nacija, religija i identiteta u regiji.

“Sviđa mi se ovaj grad, to je grad razgovora i hrane. To je mjesto za posmatranje i razmišljanje. To je mesto nade i destinacija koja pruža posjetiteljima najznačajnije prilike da vide vijekove historije i spora preplavljene u strast koju nisam sreo nigdje drugdje na mojim putovanjima”, zaključuje Max Globetrotter.

Visiting Sarajevo; Bosnia's delightful capital

The Central River in Sarajevo

What can I do in Sarajevo?”, is a question posed by many travellers heading to the Balkans and the answer is that it is a very curious and interesting experience.When there, one is permanently mindful of Narnia, and each time a new looking-glass presents it self, and one clambers ungainly through it, the perspective changes, and with it reality.

There is, of course, no such thing as “reality”, and here as much as any other region in conflict, perspective and perception are the guides to understanding. “The West Balkans”, as Yugoslavia is now considered, are an exercise in perspective.

Sarajevo is a marvellous little city; it is a three-day town, at best, and this dependent on the weather. Previously known in the West as the venue for a long-forgotten Olympic Games in 1984, the capital of Bosnia became the capital of the region’s most intractable country.

Sarajevo's old town, with the copper and silversmiths alley

It is a fine city to visit; a city of contrast and beauty, and a city that boasts centuries of cultural heritage, scholarship and governance. It is a city to wander; a place of huge historical significance yet overlooked by so many travellers. The assassination of Archduke Ferdinand and the consequential destruction of Europe by the First World War is a local event marked by a small plaque by a small bridge; and this was certainly not its first brush with large-scale war. Sarajevo has been pushed and pulled by both religious and territorial attention for centuries, and the resulting architecture and

cultural undercurrents form an engaging backdrop for any casual visitor.

I like Sarajevo; although the central Old Town could be, one imagines, an imitation of a manic Christmas Market during the summer, in the slow season one can still marvel at the streets of jewellers, metal craftsmen and souvenir shops plying for trade in the city’s centre. It is really quite lovely, and the melodic call to prayer, punctuating the day’s routine, only adds to Sarajevo’s mystique and charm.

It is, perhaps, a place to visit rather than live. The comprehensive restoration, the new buildings, roads and rebuilt bridges that have followed the brutal combat of the 1990s belie the underlying culture of Sarajevo. It is a city that is ten miles wide, and an inch deep; it seems to present itself as a veneer. Like much of Bosnia, Sarajevo is suffering from its lost youth. In two senses; both the young lost in the war, and the vanished adolescent years that a post-Communist country needed before diving into the cowboy-capitalism of the early 2000s. From these losses, both in the war and from subsequent migration, the city struggles to keep up.

Amna Turkovic is exactly sort of person that Sarajevo needs to keep. She is, in her mid-twenties, wondering about her home, its future and her own. She is educated, passionately international, passionately Bosnian and deeply proud of her Islamic heritage. She is a musician, a journalist and a thoughtful woman interested in the future. She understands and is profoundly concerned with intolerance and is dismissive of the intensification of religion as Faith transforms into Religion in today’s culture. “It can do no good”, she says, “and can only increase intolerance.”

She speaks of education. She is saddened by how standards are dropping, perhaps a necessary result of losing 150,000 young people to opportunity in the West. She speaks of the importance of the Affricate consonants (the letters c, s, z and d that in Slavic languages can, like a kaleidoscope, change their sounds subtly with only a delicate nudge), the vitality of the “ij” diphthong and other fascinating minutiae of the language. And, while at first it seemed a touch obtuse, her passion for the correct way of communicating spoke volumes, and the importance of accurate interaction in this region was not lost on me.

This is a troubled land. While many of the West Balkan countries have settled into a reverie, Bosnia remains tense. A “nation” of three components that rarely agree on anything is not a stable basis for the future. Yet it needs to become so; Bosnia is a central, and thus critical point of interaction between the peoples, nations, religions and identities of the region. It is a country whose current balance needs to progress and conclude an agreement that will allow some decades of stability and will encourage its young to stay at home and help rebuild the nation.

Not all is restored; here, in a central
street one sees the bullet holes in the
walls of the building  
Because, it is all about the young.

I liked Sarajevo a lot. It is a rather lovely city, I think; my hesitation is only drawn from the weather and my inability to see the spectacular surroundings that drew the Winter Olympics here. It is a city of conversation and of food; it is a place to gaze and think, it is a place of contradiction and hope, and a destination that offers visitors a most remarkable opportunity to see centuries of history and dispute compacted into a passion that I have not met anywhere else on my travels.

It is a city that needs to keep Amna and the thousands of other thoughtful young people who are any community’s future.

Above all, it is a city that must remember to forget, and to forget to remember.

Posted by Max Johnson at 12:11 PM  

Labels: BosniaSarajevo

Location: Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina